TIPS
BEFORE YOU START
Choose an open position preferably on a level site.
DO NOT site a pond in a frost pocket or a very exposed position.
KEEP IT well away from overhanging trees or it will fill up with rotting leaves in Autumn and also the underground roots could puncture the liner.
CHOOSE a position where the water may reflect an attractive feature like a statue or favorite plants.
CONSIDER a position with good access to the water and electricity supply and where the pond may be seen from the house or patio.
Building a Pond with a Liner.
Flexible Liners allow maximum of shape and size and are ideal where a natural look is required.
Buy the heaviest liner you can afford and opt for black as this produces the most natural effect.
A common mistake is to make the pond too small. A pond 6' x 4' x 18" deep (1.8m x 1.2m x 45 cm) is the recommended MIMIMUM if you want clear water and a happy environment for plants and fish.
Calculating Liner Size
First determine the maximum length, width and depth of the pond. Then add double the depth to both the length and width measurements. This will allow for the slope of the sides, the shelves and the overlap needed at the edge of the pond. Then add 2' feet to the width and length to allow for a 1' overhang and back filling to hold the liner in place.
Example:
A pool measuring 6' (2m) x 8' (2.5m) and 2' (60cm) deep would require a liner
12' x 14'
6' pool width + (2' pool depth x 2 =4') = 10' + 2' for overhang = 12' wide by 8' pool length + (2' pool depth x 2 = 4') =12' +2' for overhang =14'
1
Outline the shape of your pond using a string and wooden pegs or a garden hose and start to dig out the hole.
Dig down 9" (23 cm) at a gentle angle.
If you are planning to grow marginal plants, cut out 9" (23 cm) wide shelf.
then continue digging until you have the desired depth, normally between 24" - 48".
TIP
Design the pond with large open curves and flowing lines. Avoid narrow channels as they will not benefit from water circulation.
TIP
Make the pool sides slope inwards at an angle of 20 degrees from the vertical. This slope prevents the soil from caving in. In winter, if the pool freezes, the ice can expand upwards without causing damage.
2
Use a plank and carpenter's level to make sure the hole is level.
Check for any stones or tree roots that could puncture the liner.
First spread a layer of damp sand in the hole, 1 inch (2.54 cm) deep.
Cover with a layer of pond liner underlay.
Drape the liner evenly across the hole so that the center touches the base, and any shelf edges.
Anchor the overlap with stones.
TIP
It is extremely important to always check that the rim of the pool is level across both the length and the width, otherwise the resulting pond will look lopsided and unattractive.
TIP
Spread the liner out in the sun if possible, as the warmth will make it more flexible and easier to handle.
3
Slowly fill the pool with water. The liner will stretch and mould itself to the shape of the pond.
As more liner is required, adjust the stones and tug the edges of the liner to form neat folds at the sides as it starts to crease.
These will hardly be visible once the pond is full.
TIP
Why not use the excavated soil from the pond hole, mixed with topsoil, to create a rockery or the rise for a waterfall feature?
TIP
Be careful when filling the pond with water, if the liner is allowed to contort and stretch too much it may rip or puncture.
4
When the pond is full, trim off any excess liner, leaving an overhang of at least 6 to 12".
This surplus can be hidden beneath rocks, turf or paving stones bedded on mortar.
TIP
If laying slabs or stones around the edge of the pool, they should protrude slightly to hide the liner from view.
